Design Review: Recap

First things first: we have two giveaway winners!

The pattern : Camie! Contact me girl, you didn't leave your email :)


The fabric: Elizabeth!


Congrats! Expect an email from me asking for address details soon.

This is the last post in these series! I've really enjoyed reading your elaborate and honest answers to my questions. I know it's been said a lot, but the joy of knowing that there are all these super nice people out there reading my words, is just so so great. To be honest, I'm not much of a commenter myself, and I'm also not the kind of person who shouts out every three lines how much I love you. Just know that I do really appreciate you being here. Reading your answers, even though they were anonymous, made me feel like I got to know you a little bit better.

Now get ready for some piecharts!

Paper Goods

Most of you like to get your pattern by mail, or have the option to choose. This outcome gives me the final push to go for physical patterns. When it comes to pattern paper, I guess I'll have to do my best to find something that is not tissue but still see through! I love working with this in between paper I'm using, we'll just have to find out if there's a printer who can handle it.

When it comes to your favourite package, Papercut was a winner because of it's size, but Deer & Doe is a close second. One thing that was mentioned a lot was that the package should be big enough to store the pattern after use. Sturdyness and thus durability is also very important. There is a limit to the size, because a lot of you have a box to store patterns in, and the package should also fit in there. That's why some of you did not choose Papercut even though it's perfect for storing your used pattern afterwards.

Style & Size

I was happy to read that most of you liked my idea of modern, clean and edgy patterns. A bit of statistical bias though, the fact that you read my blog already indicates that you like what I do. The word 'practical' also came up a lot. Seeing that I'll be living in a firetruck for a year, I'm guessing this will definitely be a theme :). Pants were mentioned too. I also liked the contradiction in your answers: some were looking for something more 'original', while others said 'nothing is ever new'. I do think that the world does not need another Darling Ranges/Sureau/Clara though. I'll be looking to complement or add to what is already there, not make my own version of the same.

You were almost all on the same line when it comes to variations though: for 90% of you variations make it more likely for you to buy a pattern. And I agree: Indie patterns are not cheap, so you'll want to be able to use it more than once. It was also mentioned a couple of times that you don't consider sleeve lengths to be true variations, which I also agree with.

Then something about size... 78% of you do not usually fall within one size column. That's a lot! I myself usually span 4 size columns, so I know what it's like. I've just finalized my size chart, and I did a lot of research on them. I hope I've come close to the most common measurements, but this outcome just shows that it doesn't matter that much. I think it means I chould focus on explaining how to cut the pattern when you don't fall into one size column. Your comments on finished garment measurements are noted, too!

Instructions

I have to say that these answers are less easy to capture into piecharts. Which is entirely due to the fact that I should have asked better questions, ofcourse. Making good surveys is not easy!

As you can see the booklet is the most preferred shape of instructions. I can't make final decisions on these yet, but it's good to know we're mostly on the same page. The same goes for the type of diagrams. I suspect it'll be easier for me to make clear illustrations than good photographs anyway.

The overall impression that I got about the amount of information is that more is more. If I combine your answers, instructions should be elaborate and precise but written in simple English, and there should be enough illustrations for those who don't read instructions and/or are more experienced. Recommended fabric and seam finishes are also appreciated. I like what Tilly did, providing a simple checklist with the pattern and providing a step-by-step sewalong with photo's. There's room for innovation here and I'll have to think on that some more. I think that not only the content but also the design and layout of the information will play a big role in making everything understandable.

That's it folks! Thanks again so much for your feedback, you've helped me making decisions and also you've helped yourself by participating in my design process. I'll never be able to please everyone, but I hope this way I'll create stuff that's mostly in line with your needs and wishes. Cheers!

Design Review: Giveaway!

NOTE: This giveaway is now closed!

Before I do a recap of your answers, I wanted to give huge thanks for your input on the Design Review surveys! To express my gratitude I've set up a little giveaway. I want to encourage you all to try an Indie pattern in case you haven't yet, so I'm giving away...

One Indie pattern of your choice!

Maybe one of these? Negroni shirt, Josephine tee, Thurlow Trousers, Briar Sweater, Robe Bleuet

And a bonus birthday prize: This lovely cat jersey!





You can choose any indie pattern company, any pattern, it's not limited to the ones I've mentioned here. So if you'd like Tilly's Mathilde blouse, or the Elisalex Dress of By Hand London, it's all good. My birthday was Feb 18th, hence the bonus prize :). The fabric is a medium weight jersey of good quality, 1.5 by 1.5 meters (1.5 yards, 60" wide). Also seen here and here. I got it a few months ago but it's too patterny for me.

All I ask of you in return is to fill out one of the surveys. They're anonymous so I won't be able to check, but it would be nice if you'd do it anyway :) You can choose from these three:

Paper Goods
Style & Size
Instructions

And then let me know in your comment:

• which pattern you'd pick
• how to contact you

You're automatically in for both prizes, if you don't like the fabric let me know, then I'll exclude you in the bonus draw. Extra entries:

• Tweet about it 
• Blog about it

Leave a separate comment for each entry. Entries are accepted until March 12th. This giveaway is open internationally. You can only win either one of the prizes, I'll draw first prize winner first. I am not sponsored by any indie pattern designer, this truly is a gift from me to you!

Good luck!

Design Review: Instructions

Again I'd like to thank you for filling out the previous survey. I can't believe how elaborate some of your answers are, I really really appreciate that! And I love how some of you have the same ideas that I already had, which means I'm on the right track! I'm planning a special Design Review giveaway to express my gratitude :) If you'd like to share your opinion too, check the previous two Design Reviews:

Paper Goods
Style & Size

So today I'd like to talk with you about the instructions that come with a pattern. Again, a lot of decisions have to be made and all designers seem to have chosen differently. One thing is for sure: in general the instructions that come with indie patterns are a big improvement compared to most magazines (I'm looking at you, Burda).



Shape
Sewaholic is the only one with instructions in the shape of a fold out leaflet. I like the overwiew of the steps you get this way, but it also takes up a lot of space on my sewing table. So I prefer having a booklet to flip through. Not as tiny as Papercut's though. Funny that the one with the biggest package has such a small instruction booklet. What I like about digital patterns is that I open the instructions on my iPad. A combination might be possible too, get the physical pattern but download the instructions. It would make printing cheaper and adjustments are easily made. What do you think?

Different sizes of instruction booklets. Clockwise: Sewaholic, Papercut, Megan Nielsen.

Diagrams
Victory is the only one who uses a combination of photo's and illustrations to support the text. Personally I like illustrations better, it's easier to see what's going on. What I like is that most designers have blogposts where they explain certain steps of the process in more detail, with photos. Sometimes this is part of a sewalong, but Grainline has picked out the most elusive part of the process, in case of the Moss skirt installing the fly. How would you like the text to be visualized?

Victory Patterns' instructions

Additional info
What other information besides the cutting layout and fabric choice would you want in your instructions? Would you want me to explain different techniques you can use? For example, Colette explains how to make flat felled seams for the Negroni, and how to press pockets. Deer & Doe has minimized the use of illustrations as you can see. Grainline just says 'finish seam as desired'. Papercut says 'overlock the edges' but gives no alternative for what to do when you don't have an overlocker. Do you have ideas about additional information?

Information heavyness: Colette vs Deer & Doe

Clarity
To be honest, I rarely follow the instructions to the letter. I also haven't made up all of these patterns (planning to, though) so I haven't come across any difficulties yet. Have you made anything from these designers, and what do you think about the clarity of the instructions?

Below you can find the form! If it's visible you can fill it in, if not, click here.

Design Review: Style & Size

First: thank you so much for taking the time to fill out the last Design Review! You answers are very helpful, and also heartwarming in terms of encouraging comments. I've already learned a lot of useful things about Paper Goods. (Haven't filled it out yet? Go here to give your opinion and influence my future patterns!). I'll do a post about it after I've collected all of it.

In this second Design Review, I'd like to discuss pattern style with you. Every designer makes patterns that cohere with her own style and taste in clothing. But you also have to decide how many pattern variations there will be, and what sizing you'll choose. I've created a little survey again, and it would be awesome if you'd fill it out for me! This will help me design patterns that coincide with your wishes - the most important criterium if I want this to turn into a business.

A detail of Victory patterns' Simone

Style
The seven designers we're discussing (Colette, Grainline, Sewaholic, Victory, Papercut, Megan Nielsen, Deer & Doe) all have a somewhat different style. Colette leans toward vintage, and has mostly classy and feminine dresses. Megan Nielsen designs fun day-to-day wear that is easy to move in. Grainline has a clean minimalistic style and focuses on basics. Deer & Doe to me is a bit of a mix between Colette and Megan Nielsen. (The Sureau looks quite similatr to the Darling Ranges, don't you think?). Papercut has the cute, modern patterns, aimed towards a slightly younger audience. Victory has a distinctive style of her own, with flowy dresses and interesting detailing. And Sewaholic, as we all know, designs basic patterns for pear shaped women. If you ask me, there is something available for everyone. What I'd personally like to add is patterns that are a bit more edgy, not so much vintage and cute, but interesting and comfortable. Say, a mix between Victory's distinctiveness and Grainline's minimalism. I am hoping ofcourse that this is exactly what you're looking for ;). But I should ask first: is there a design style you think is missing?

Sewaholic's Pendrell Blouse variations

Variations
Personally, I love a pattern that gives me different options. Sewaholic is very good at this, always giving you as many options as a pattern can handle, it seems. Most designers offer at least two. Why some would offer only one sleeve length, is probably because they don't think other lengths are part of the design they have in mind. For me that means I'm less likely to buy a pattern. I would be aiming for as many variations as I could think of, as long as they do justice to the main design and are easy to build in to the patterns. It also gives you more worth for your money, because you get to make different garments from one pattern. But I can also imagine that more variations can make you indecisive and less inclined to choose and actually make it. So I'm curious, do you like pattern variations? Or would you rather avoid having to choose?

Grainline's Size Chart

Sizes
This is a difficult topic. There's been some discussions about sizing lately, and whether or not they are based on true measurements, or the ideal ones. I've collected 9 sizing charts, and compared their size ratio based on my bust measurement, 88 cm (34.5"). I'm not comparing waist or hip because mine are a bit out of whack, no size chart ever fits these measurements. It turns out that every designer has it's own look on what a woman with an 88 bust looks like. According to Victory, I'd have a 66 (26") waist and a 91.5 (36") hip. Broad upper body, slim hips. Compare this to Grainline, who thinks a woman with 88 bust has a 71 (28") waist and a 96.5 hip (38"). That's difference of 2 whole inches in waist and hip! This woman would be more of a rectangle. A bit of an exaggeration, but it's still a big difference. Also, women seem to be bigger down under. I'm an XS with Megan Nielsen and Papercut, everywhere else I'm usually a 38/M/6-8. Or would this have been done to make me feel better about my measurements?

Another difference is the variation in grading. The difference seems to be connected to geographical location. European standards dictate 4 cm (1.6") difference between sizes. American patterns seem to vary between 2.5 and 5 (1-2"), and Papercut has no less than 6 cm (2.4"). Some vary these within the same chart, some don't. To me, 6 cm would make it very likely that someone would fall between sizes. On the other hand, you'd have to grade less patterns to get a bigger size range. So my question for you is: Do you usually fall within one size column? Do you have thoughts about sizing charts? Do you feel they reflect actual women?

Below you can find the form. If you're reading this in Google Reader, click here!

Design Review: Paper Goods

In these Design Review series, I want to discuss and compare a few indie pattern designers on various subjects. I've chosen seven designers, loosely based on popularity, size and diversity. I'm hoping you'll talk with me on your experiences, what you like and don't like, so I can take this into account when shaping my own products. I'll leave out all the (dis)advantages that these options will have for me as the maker, and just look at the subjects as a customer. In the coming weeks I'll cover instructions, pattern style and variation, and communication.

But today, I'll start with paper: the way in which your pattern is delivered to you (downloadable or physical), the packaging and the pattern paper. I've created another survey to collect your answers at the bottom, it'd be great if you'd fill it out!

Digital or physical
As you know, patterns are usually delivered in two forms. With the first you have the pattern immediately at your disposal, but you have to print and tape the pattern yourself. With a physical pattern, you have to wait some time before it arrives, but then the only thing you have to do is trace it or cut it out. Some designers offer only downloads (Grainline, Victory Patterns), some offer only printed versions (Sewaholic, Papercut Patterns, Deer & Doe, Megan Nielsen) and some offer both (Colette Patterns). For me, the choice is clear: I would go for physical. I don't own a printer, which takes away the argument of having it immediately. I also find the printing and taping a bit annoying. To me, the joy of receiving an actual package and having a pretty instruction booklet to flip through is worth the wait and the extra money. And it's easier to store them because they already come in an envelope. But then again, it is not me I'll be making patterns for :) So my question: what is your preference?



Packaging
When it comes to packaging, it seems everyone has chosen a different strategy. Sewaholic uses a standard (but pretty) pattern envelope that opens at the top. Megan Nielsen uses the same but with a wider opening and a velcro closing. Colette Patterns has an envelope and booklet in one with a fold-in closing. Papercut patterns has taken packaging to a whole different level, cardboard with a fold open hook and stenciled logo. Deer & Doe uses an envelope but bigger than normal.
To me, the Papercut and D&D envelopes are a winner because of their size. Sewaholic's has a clean look but I don't like the small opening, it teares easily. I don't use it to store the pattern afterwards. Megan Nielsen makes this a bit easier with the wide opening and the Velcro closure. The folding flap on the Colette envelope had already teared before I used the pattern. But I like the fact that you can keep instructions and pattern together more easily. What are your thoughts on these different ways of packaging a pattern? What would your ideal package look like?



Pattern Paper
Another important difference between these pattern designers is their choice of pattern paper. Sewaholic and Colette use the standard tissue thin pattern paper. Megan Nielsen, Papercut and D&D use normal/recycled paper, I'm guessing the standard 80 grams. Both have advantages and disadvantages. The brown tissue paper tears easily but takes up less room and works better with stretchy fabrics. The thick paper lasts longer but you'll have to iron it well for it to lay flat and you can't see through it. I personally would very much like something in between. My sewing teacher has something like that, sturdy but still see-through. What kind of pattern paper do you prefer?