PPM #1: Draped Design

For my first pattern in this Project Pattern Magic series, I wanted to start with something that could be wearable and fairly easy to make. The Draped Design in the first PM book looked simple and not too whacky.



Drafting and cutting
Drafting the pattern was indeed easy. The basic method that most patterns follow start with a sloper or block. You adjust it and add some lines here and there, following the instructions. Then you cut along the lines and spread out the area that needs more room. You tape this spread out pattern to another piece of pattern paper, and draw or trace along the outlines. Then you have your actual pattern.

I have a better understanding on where to start making adjustments due to the class I'm in. This is a pattern where you have to create a lot of extra fabric at the middle, so you cut a lot of lines and then spread them outwards. Because you will end up with lots of individual pieces, tape the edges back together after you've started cutting. This way you won't lose track of which piece goes where. After cutting, fold the tape over the edge so you can move the pattern, but the pieces are still joined.





Give yourself some time re-aligning the pieces. They are all interdependent so just keep shifting until they are all in the right position. Again here it helps to tape a few corners to the paper underneath, so they stay put.



Fabric
I found some nice eyelet cotton, a yard for 3,50. I didn't want to spend too much in case it did not come out wearable, but still used a nice fabric in case it did. I wanted a lightweight cotton because I was afraid a medium weight would cause a big knot. I figured I should keep it as small as possible since I have only a tiny apple dumpling shop, as Cation would call it :). Also, make sure it hase some drape, it really should be soft and not stiff. A yard was barely enough by the way, get 1,5 if you're making this.

Sewing
I had to cut the front piece off grain and the back on cross grain in order to make it fit on the fabric. The back is not cut on the fold, it has a curved center seam. Because this is a pattern drafting book, it doesn't say much on putting it together, let alone finishing techniques. I guess this is also why it is not suited for beginners, you have to know basic construction techniques. After the last step in the book, you'll only have the front piece sewn together, edges still raw. The back has two shoulder darts and two asymmetrical waist darts, so you'll need to sew those up too. If you're making this in cotton or other non stretch fabric, you'll have to add a zipper or some other closure too. I added a blind zip at the side seam. Then, you'll have to finish the neckline, armholes and hems. I used black bias tape on all three.



You can see how nicely shaped the back is due to the darts. There's a bulge in the picture, but that's not how it looks when you'd see it in reality. Even though the goal is to create a draped front, I like how the back piece is carefully shaped as well. I did iron the seams, in case you're wondering :) It's this light from the side that makes them look bulky.



Wearability
I am quite happy with how this turned out! You can see I had to use the fabric all the way up to the selvedges where the eyelet stopped. But I managed to position these parts at the shoulder, so it looks quite allright I think. The knot is not out of proportion and because the fabric is quite simple, it doesn't look too weird at all. I like this top a lot, and I think it'll be perfect for summer days as well as layered in spring. It's even appropriate for work. And it's black, so easy to combine. I haven't decided what I'll make next month, but I'll announce it on Twitter when I've chosen.

So, do you think you'll be able to make this top, too? If you have any questions, now or at any time, just let me know so I can help you draft or sew!

Cake That Lasts

Doesn't sound too delicious, right? Fortunately this is cake you won't have to eat :) Right after I made a hoodie for Stef, I bought fabric to make another hoodie for myself. I wanted to see how I could adapt a men's pattern into a women's pattern and I thought my wardrobe could do with a sporty casual zip hoodie. The fabric is a petrol sweater jersey (looks blue in the pics, but it isn't!) with a fluffy inside. I lined the hood with a slinky knit, with a sort of random black and white houndstooth pattern.





I used the same Fehmarn pattern from the Germand brand Farbenmix, but I traced a size S. I adapted the pattern by making the armholes and sleeveheads smaller, taking in the shoulders, making an armhole dart to create a bit more shape at the front, and I curved the sideseams at the waist. The shoulders are still a bit wide, but I'm not sure a hoodie is supposed to be super fitted anyway. The armhole darts are a teensy bit too high. Funny, because I did some careful fitting although the hood was not attached at that point. I guess the hood pulls it a bit backward and thus the dart moves up.



An improvement I made in comparison with Stef's hoodie is lengthening the lining at the front so it doesnt stop so abruptly. I like the seams on the front that show through. I've gotten better at neat and straight seams and matching them up at zippers and it's nice to notice that. And I used binding strips of fabric at the pocket entrance, instead of just folding over the fabric like the instructions say. I've also managed to topstitch the yoke seams at front and back and the cuffs without stretching the fabric. Thanks to TanitIsis' tip of releasing presser foot tension!



I think this hoodie turned out exactly what it was supposed to be. A casual hoodie, for sundays at home or walks in the park with the dog. Cake, if you will :) I'm not completely sure about the combination of the petrol and the lining. I mean, I like the effect, but I'm not sure it's entirely my style. Maybe a bit too young? (Oh god, did I just say I'm too old for something? Aaaggh...) And black and white around my face might not be the best idea. But it's comfortable and I hope that with the extra attention I paid to finishing techniques, I've also made it durable. In short, cake that lasts!

Design Review: Paper Goods

In these Design Review series, I want to discuss and compare a few indie pattern designers on various subjects. I've chosen seven designers, loosely based on popularity, size and diversity. I'm hoping you'll talk with me on your experiences, what you like and don't like, so I can take this into account when shaping my own products. I'll leave out all the (dis)advantages that these options will have for me as the maker, and just look at the subjects as a customer. In the coming weeks I'll cover instructions, pattern style and variation, and communication.

But today, I'll start with paper: the way in which your pattern is delivered to you (downloadable or physical), the packaging and the pattern paper. I've created another survey to collect your answers at the bottom, it'd be great if you'd fill it out!

Digital or physical
As you know, patterns are usually delivered in two forms. With the first you have the pattern immediately at your disposal, but you have to print and tape the pattern yourself. With a physical pattern, you have to wait some time before it arrives, but then the only thing you have to do is trace it or cut it out. Some designers offer only downloads (Grainline, Victory Patterns), some offer only printed versions (Sewaholic, Papercut Patterns, Deer & Doe, Megan Nielsen) and some offer both (Colette Patterns). For me, the choice is clear: I would go for physical. I don't own a printer, which takes away the argument of having it immediately. I also find the printing and taping a bit annoying. To me, the joy of receiving an actual package and having a pretty instruction booklet to flip through is worth the wait and the extra money. And it's easier to store them because they already come in an envelope. But then again, it is not me I'll be making patterns for :) So my question: what is your preference?



Packaging
When it comes to packaging, it seems everyone has chosen a different strategy. Sewaholic uses a standard (but pretty) pattern envelope that opens at the top. Megan Nielsen uses the same but with a wider opening and a velcro closing. Colette Patterns has an envelope and booklet in one with a fold-in closing. Papercut patterns has taken packaging to a whole different level, cardboard with a fold open hook and stenciled logo. Deer & Doe uses an envelope but bigger than normal.
To me, the Papercut and D&D envelopes are a winner because of their size. Sewaholic's has a clean look but I don't like the small opening, it teares easily. I don't use it to store the pattern afterwards. Megan Nielsen makes this a bit easier with the wide opening and the Velcro closure. The folding flap on the Colette envelope had already teared before I used the pattern. But I like the fact that you can keep instructions and pattern together more easily. What are your thoughts on these different ways of packaging a pattern? What would your ideal package look like?



Pattern Paper
Another important difference between these pattern designers is their choice of pattern paper. Sewaholic and Colette use the standard tissue thin pattern paper. Megan Nielsen, Papercut and D&D use normal/recycled paper, I'm guessing the standard 80 grams. Both have advantages and disadvantages. The brown tissue paper tears easily but takes up less room and works better with stretchy fabrics. The thick paper lasts longer but you'll have to iron it well for it to lay flat and you can't see through it. I personally would very much like something in between. My sewing teacher has something like that, sturdy but still see-through. What kind of pattern paper do you prefer?

I Can't Get Enough

This is the outfit I have been living in since I made this cropped Briar back in December. At first I was a bit scared of the high front, so I googled some images on how to wear a cropped sweater. And then I realized I had the perfect fabric, and the perfect shirt to go with it. And it turned out exactly as I had imagined!




I love how the briar hem and the shirt hem form this oval shape. I made this right after my first Briar, in just 3 hours including cutting. It hardly uses up any fabric, too. I cut out size S again, with 3/4 sleeves. I heightened the neckline 2 cm, but I think 1 cm would have been enough. I could still redo it, the neckline has come loose a bit so I need to redo it anyway. I didn't use my serger on this one. I want to get better at sewing with knits, even without a serger. But I don't know, although I've improved on keeping the stretch the neckline seam still snapped. I've noticed that Megan Nielsen's instructions do not include stitching the neckline down, while Sewaholic's do. I never do that in fear of wobbly stretchy fabric anyway. But I'm busy acquiring a walking foot so I hope that'll open up some new possibilities.




It makes me want to make more cropped tops and also more shirts like this. The blurry pics and horrible overcast winter weather don't do it justice! The Briar looks like a very simple pattern, but with the various length and sleeve variations it's possible to create quite different styles. I'm betting this won't be my last Briar!

On commenting

Just a quick note: I heard some people weren't able to comment, so I've turned on 'anyone' for the comments, which means you can also comment if you dont have any online profile!

And while we're at it: I want this blog to be a place where you can be honest. That means you don't have to spare me in the sense that if you see a mistake, or have a suggestion on how I could do something better. I'd always like to hear it. That's how we learn, right? So, thanks in advance for your comments ;)