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Wednesday, January 30, 2013

PPM #1: Draped Design

For my first pattern in this Project Pattern Magic series, I wanted to start with something that could be wearable and fairly easy to make. The Draped Design in the first PM book looked simple and not too whacky.



Drafting and cutting
Drafting the pattern was indeed easy. The basic method that most patterns follow start with a sloper or block. You adjust it and add some lines here and there, following the instructions. Then you cut along the lines and spread out the area that needs more room. You tape this spread out pattern to another piece of pattern paper, and draw or trace along the outlines. Then you have your actual pattern.

I have a better understanding on where to start making adjustments due to the class I'm in. This is a pattern where you have to create a lot of extra fabric at the middle, so you cut a lot of lines and then spread them outwards. Because you will end up with lots of individual pieces, tape the edges back together after you've started cutting. This way you won't lose track of which piece goes where. After cutting, fold the tape over the edge so you can move the pattern, but the pieces are still joined.





Give yourself some time re-aligning the pieces. They are all interdependent so just keep shifting until they are all in the right position. Again here it helps to tape a few corners to the paper underneath, so they stay put.



Fabric
I found some nice eyelet cotton, a yard for 3,50. I didn't want to spend too much in case it did not come out wearable, but still used a nice fabric in case it did. I wanted a lightweight cotton because I was afraid a medium weight would cause a big knot. I figured I should keep it as small as possible since I have only a tiny apple dumpling shop, as Cation would call it :). Also, make sure it hase some drape, it really should be soft and not stiff. A yard was barely enough by the way, get 1,5 if you're making this.

Sewing
I had to cut the front piece off grain and the back on cross grain in order to make it fit on the fabric. The back is not cut on the fold, it has a curved center seam. Because this is a pattern drafting book, it doesn't say much on putting it together, let alone finishing techniques. I guess this is also why it is not suited for beginners, you have to know basic construction techniques. After the last step in the book, you'll only have the front piece sewn together, edges still raw. The back has two shoulder darts and two asymmetrical waist darts, so you'll need to sew those up too. If you're making this in cotton or other non stretch fabric, you'll have to add a zipper or some other closure too. I added a blind zip at the side seam. Then, you'll have to finish the neckline, armholes and hems. I used black bias tape on all three.



You can see how nicely shaped the back is due to the darts. There's a bulge in the picture, but that's not how it looks when you'd see it in reality. Even though the goal is to create a draped front, I like how the back piece is carefully shaped as well. I did iron the seams, in case you're wondering :) It's this light from the side that makes them look bulky.



Wearability
I am quite happy with how this turned out! You can see I had to use the fabric all the way up to the selvedges where the eyelet stopped. But I managed to position these parts at the shoulder, so it looks quite allright I think. The knot is not out of proportion and because the fabric is quite simple, it doesn't look too weird at all. I like this top a lot, and I think it'll be perfect for summer days as well as layered in spring. It's even appropriate for work. And it's black, so easy to combine. I haven't decided what I'll make next month, but I'll announce it on Twitter when I've chosen.

So, do you think you'll be able to make this top, too? If you have any questions, now or at any time, just let me know so I can help you draft or sew!

14 comments:

  1. I love what you've done. I think it's totally wearable.

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  2. Hey, it turned out great. Very elegant, well done. I'll have to give this design a go at some point though it's not one of those where I'd easily guess what's happening with the pattern. You'll be hearing from me if I get stuck!

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    1. I had the same thing, but when you have it cut out you'll see what needs to be done. And if not you'll know where to find me :)

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    2. Marianna, check this post by Violette a Paris, she illustrates the way to cut and spread with colored lines.

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  3. I love how this has turned out, it's much nicer made up in 'proper' fabric compared to what's in the book, and totally wearable too. good work!!

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  4. This really turned out well! Nice fabric and the design looks great on you.

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  5. Do you think this would be suitable to make in a knit? I am hoarding some stipey knit fabric and can't help but wonder what that 'whirlpool drape' would look like when made up in stripes

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    1. I was wondering that myself, and I think it would work. At least for the front, although you'd probably need to shave some off the sides because of the stretch. And you'll have to see what to do with the darts on the back, I'd redraw that one eliminating the darts. And stripes would be very awesome I think!

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    2. Ooh, interesting idea Rachel-Lou (I've got lots of striped knit left...) And presumably, there'd be no need for a zip?!

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  6. This is so nice! You better handled the waist than I did. I should review my pattern now that I see yours.

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    1. Yes I took some extra in at the waist, the folds make me look extra big. I love that you did a button down back! Great idea to make it even more interesting.

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  7. I love the pants; I've tried wearing pants that color but the shadows are so revealing, so that I can't put a single object in my pockets. And I's gots to have my pockets.

    As for your blouse, I think it's lovely. The eyelet is whimsical and sweet, but the design is sophisticated, and so you look like a nice lady (neither young nor old).

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  8. Great top! I will stay tuned to your project pattern magic. This top reminds me that I have some eyelet destined for a summer dress. Perhaps I will pattern magic it.

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    1. You could easily turn this top into a dress! Just lenghten and flare out. Or create a dropped waist if that requires too much fabric. Coming to think of it, I might do that myself. There's a twist dress in the book too!

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