Sewer's supplies #2

Nr 2, you might think, when was nr. 1? Well, back in April 2011. This was meant to be a series of posts. And that is also how long I've been wanting to make a ham and sausage. And so I finally did, because they are perfect for using scraps. I had to select on weight of fabric so they're not exceptionally pretty.

I used the tutorial Tilly just posted. I don't know if they have the right size, I don't have a printer so I transferred measurements from my iPad to paper. The sausage seems about right, the ham is on the small side. I'm not sure the pattern is right, even if you made it bigger it wouldn't be as rectangular as pictured in the tutorial. I stuffed them with the synthetic contents of a pillow. So, not much else to say about these, let's get back to work! 2 days, 2 projects...

(15:60 #13)

On Pouches (And Keeping Resolutions)

Eeek! I just realised that I have 2 days less than I thought to finish the challenge, because I started it on the 29th and not the 31st. Luckily, I still had some small projects on my list. First up is the Current Knitting Project Bag. Stef grew a bit tired of the wool and needles lying around the house. I wanted to keep them at hand because if I put it away, I'll never finish my summer sweater. So I figured I could make a small bag that could keep my current project together. Another benefit is that it's easy to take it with you when you travel, instead of just stuffing it in your bag and the whole thing unraveling or tangling up. The fabric is a remnant of IKEA upholstery fabric. It's quite heavy, so no chance of needles poking through.

The other quick project has something to do with my New Years resolution! Starting the 4th of September, I'll be following a pattern drafting course! It's an elaborate one, that will continue until May. It's actually the first year of a four year dressmakers training. I'm not going to do the whole thing, just the first year. I'm so excited to start learning how to draft patterns in a professional way! I'm hoping it will really enhance my designs. For this course, I needed some supplies like a pencil, ruler, eraser and a file with squared paper. I wanted to make a pouch for the utensils. Stef suggested I add eyelets so I can keep the pouch and file together at all times. Smart, right?

The brown fabric is the oldest remnant I have. It was used for the school play in my junior year, we were expected to sew our own clothes for it. My grandmother helped me to sew a simple jacket and pants. In fact, these were sewn on the machine I'm using right now. I was so impressed, I still have clear memories of the process. This is what sparked my sewing interest! I thought it was only logical to use this fabric for something that will take this 'hobby' to the next level. And ofcourse I'll share some of the insights here with you. I can't wait!

(15:60 #11 & 12)

End of Summer Dress

It was hardly worth it: we were about to have 5 days of very nice/hot weather (around 30C/86F) and on the first day, I realized I really wanted to have a light, fluttery dress that would come closest to wearing nothing without revealing everything. And I knew what fabric I wanted to use. I had thought of saving it for next year, but I really wanted to use it now. I tossed the longsleeve I was making aside, and started drafting. Ideas for garments don't come suddenly, they sort of simmer in my head for a while until the picture is complete. This was the basis for the picture of this dress.



It's the same fabric I used for my first loopscarf, I'm guessing a light cotton. I had heard about the stretching of fabric at the place where it's cut on the bias, and as you can see now have first hand experience with this phenomenon. Cutting on the bias is unavoidable with circle skirts, and this fabric is one that you should let hang for a day before you hem, apparently. Or should you always hang circle skirts before hemming? Anyway, the uneven (but symmetrical) hem is not something that bothers me a great deal, but the idea of redoing it is not off the table yet.



I was afraid I'd have to line it, but fortunately it's not that transparent. To keep it as light and airy as possible I used my pinking shears as a seam finish. I didn't think of using my serger until after finishing! I made a muslin of the bodice to see if my pattern would work. Then I read some things about darts and tried to figure out how to incorporate them into the pattern. I wanted it to be sort of fitted from the bust down so it would smoothly continue into the half circle skirt. I figured I needed two vertical darts to get a nice fit. I didn't seem to need bust or armhole darts at that point. Maybe because the unbleached cotton I used is everything but fluttery and I didn't make a complete bodice muslin.



I was a bit surprised at my own math skills when it turned out the bodice and skirt lined up perfectly! It shouldn't be that complicated, but when you don't have a tutorial there's always the chance you're overlooking something. When I had sewn up the complete dress, it turned out I did need armhole darts. So now there's four darts in the bodice, and it fits really well around the armholes and bust. The only thing is that the waistline should have been, well, at my waist. When I had just sewn it, it was half an inch below and I decided I could live with that. Partly because I didn't want to redo the blind zipper :). But now it has stretched to an inch. Maybe I could make some beltloops and use a belt to keep it at my waist. Those are the cons of fluttery fabric, I guess! What do you think, would you shorten the bodice and redo zipper?



This is the bodice pattern I ended up with, including armhole darts and a shortened waist for next time. I am quite happy with the dress, despite the shortcomings. It served it's purpose as a fluttery summer dress for what were probably the last two days of real summer. But I've already spied a dark green knit fabric to make a cardigan that goes with it so I can keep wearing it!

(15:60 #10 - 5 projects, 10 days to go!)

I Found Something

The last few days have been too hot to do anything really. I did sew a dress for the occasion, but it was too hot to bother with pictures. I'll post about that later this week! The best thing to do with this kind of weather is to sit still, have Iced Coffee (made with these) and read. I spied a new (well, it's the 7th edition so I guess I've missed out on a few) magazine that seemed to be about sewing - the big scissors gave it away. I was excited to find a different kind of sewing magazine that wasn't Burda or Knipmode, so I thought I'd share since they provide worldwide subscriptions.



It's called CUT - Leute machen Kleider. As you can see, it's in German but I thought I'd manage. (How funny is that word - Flaschlappen). It's about everything DIY, but has "People make clothes" as subtitle. It's not cheap but you get 144 pages for it. It starts off with a roundup of Etsy and Dawanda funky stuff. The DIY Couture book is listed too. (I WANT IT) See how they use different kinds of stitches in their layout?

It's not a sewing magazine like the Burda is: it has only three patterns: a simple drape-neck dress, a rainponcho and men's swimming shorts. The dress is not that exciting, but the cape and shorts are interesting!



It has (what seem like) clear instructions with pictures and pattern pieces to trace.



Other than patterns, it's got artsy pictured tutorials on how to upcycle plain totes, 5 ways to make your own lamp and ideas on making your own jewelry (nice stuff, you know, nothing with beads and feathers). Apart from that, there's also interviews with independent designers, tricks on how to get different kinds stains out of fabric, a city-review on Amsterdam and a lengthy article about trends (what they are, where they come from, why we follow them) which I'm planning to read to practice my German.

I don't know, this magazine just has something that makes me happy. The same thing happened when I discovered Apartamento. It just seems a break from all that we know and to have a refreshing take on what a magazine should look like and what kind of content it should have. Plus I'm developing a tiny crush on Germany in general. Making German friends in Norway, discovering German blogs, there seem to be lots of cool things going on there. Maybe I should pay more attention to our neighbours!

Take 2: Circle skirt

After taking apart the failed maxi skirt I figured the colour wasn't really my thing either. So I dyed it Ocean Blue (Dylon machine wash), with an interesting result. It turns out the threads on the grain are synthetic, and the threads on the cross grain are natural. The natural ones make up the colour, but the synthetic ones underneath give the skirt a bit of a shine. Plus the synthetic fibers makes the fabric less prone to crease. And I figured out how to use this fabric: in a circle skirt!

I have no idea why I never made one before. It's so easy, the overall fit is great and it's truly the best summer skirt; light and breezy. It's actually a half circle skirt. I used the SnugBugs circle skirt calculator to draw the pattern, and the Vivat Veritas' Scallop Waist Skirt Tutorial on how to put it together. I actually started this because I'm going to make a circle skirt for a friend and I wanted to try it out on myself first.



The obligatory twirling photo shows the light white cotton I used as lining. I installed an invisible zipper which had to be truly invisible because it's cream coloured. A good way to force yourself to be precise :) But it worked out well, I think this is the best one I've done so far. Except that I now forgot to check if the waistband lines up at the zipper. Ah well. To close the top I used a hook and eye (which have apparently come loose again, I discovered through this photo). I inserted them between the waistband layers, like Karen I used to just sew them on the inside until she mentioned inserting them. I took no shortcuts and finished every seam. A nice finish is a big part of what constitutes the feeling you have about something you just made. So no, past me, you can't just do whatever you like, following professional sewing rules is a good thing. They're not there to take the fun out of sewing, they make your garment better and more durable.



I absolutely love the outcome! All in all I made this in an afternoon, including drawing and cutting. The thing I love most about this skirt: it fits seamlessly (hehe) in my wardrobe! There's so many pieces I can combine it with because it's plain and basic. Below are the cool top, a thrifted H&M shirt, the basic floral top and the batwings with buttons sweater. I bet it looks great with the perfect shirt, too. I think I like the first one the most, but I also like the third one because I've made that top a long time ago.



Unfortunately it has fallen victim to my best trait twice already. This time it was mayonnaise and banana milkshake. Sigh.

(15:60 #9)