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Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Design Review: Paper Goods



In these Design Review series, I want to discuss and compare a few indie pattern designers on various subjects. I've chosen seven designers, loosely based on popularity, size and diversity. I'm hoping you'll talk with me on your experiences, what you like and don't like, so I can take this into account when shaping my own products. I'll leave out all the (dis)advantages that these options will have for me as the maker, and just look at the subjects as a customer. In the coming weeks I'll cover instructions, pattern style and variation, and communication.

But today, I'll start with paper: the way in which your pattern is delivered to you (downloadable or physical), the packaging and the pattern paper. I've created another survey to collect your answers at the bottom, it'd be great if you'd fill it out!

Digital or physical
As you know, patterns are usually delivered in two forms. With the first you have the pattern immediately at your disposal, but you have to print and tape the pattern yourself. With a physical pattern, you have to wait some time before it arrives, but then the only thing you have to do is trace it or cut it out. Some designers offer only downloads (Grainline, Victory Patterns), some offer only printed versions (Sewaholic, Papercut Patterns, Deer & Doe, Megan Nielsen) and some offer both (Colette Patterns). For me, the choice is clear: I would go for physical. I don't own a printer, which takes away the argument of having it immediately. I also find the printing and taping a bit annoying. To me, the joy of receiving an actual package and having a pretty instruction booklet to flip through is worth the wait and the extra money. And it's easier to store them because they already come in an envelope. But then again, it is not me I'll be making patterns for :) So my question: what is your preference?



Packaging
When it comes to packaging, it seems everyone has chosen a different strategy. Sewaholic uses a standard (but pretty) pattern envelope that opens at the top. Megan Nielsen uses the same but with a wider opening and a velcro closing. Colette Patterns has an envelope and booklet in one with a fold-in closing. Papercut patterns has taken packaging to a whole different level, cardboard with a fold open hook and stenciled logo. Deer & Doe uses an envelope but bigger than normal.
To me, the Papercut and D&D envelopes are a winner because of their size. Sewaholic's has a clean look but I don't like the small opening, it teares easily. I don't use it to store the pattern afterwards. Megan Nielsen makes this a bit easier with the wide opening and the Velcro closure. The folding flap on the Colette envelope had already teared before I used the pattern. But I like the fact that you can keep instructions and pattern together more easily. What are your thoughts on these different ways of packaging a pattern? What would your ideal package look like?



Pattern Paper
Another important difference between these pattern designers is their choice of pattern paper. Sewaholic and Colette use the standard tissue thin pattern paper. Megan Nielsen, Papercut and D&D use normal/recycled paper, I'm guessing the standard 80 grams. Both have advantages and disadvantages. The brown tissue paper tears easily but takes up less room and works better with stretchy fabrics. The thick paper lasts longer but you'll have to iron it well for it to lay flat and you can't see through it. I personally would very much like something in between. My sewing teacher has something like that, sturdy but still see-through. What kind of pattern paper do you prefer?



Sunday, January 20, 2013

I Can't Get Enough

This is the outfit I have been living in since I made this cropped Briar back in December. At first I was a bit scared of the high front, so I googled some images on how to wear a cropped sweater. And then I realized I had the perfect fabric, and the perfect shirt to go with it. And it turned out exactly as I had imagined!




I love how the briar hem and the shirt hem form this oval shape. I made this right after my first Briar, in just 3 hours including cutting. It hardly uses up any fabric, too. I cut out size S again, with 3/4 sleeves. I heightened the neckline 2 cm, but I think 1 cm would have been enough. I could still redo it, the neckline has come loose a bit so I need to redo it anyway. I didn't use my serger on this one. I want to get better at sewing with knits, even without a serger. But I don't know, although I've improved on keeping the stretch the neckline seam still snapped. I've noticed that Megan Nielsen's instructions do not include stitching the neckline down, while Sewaholic's do. I never do that in fear of wobbly stretchy fabric anyway. But I'm busy acquiring a walking foot so I hope that'll open up some new possibilities.




It makes me want to make more cropped tops and also more shirts like this. The blurry pics and horrible overcast winter weather don't do it justice! The Briar looks like a very simple pattern, but with the various length and sleeve variations it's possible to create quite different styles. I'm betting this won't be my last Briar!

Friday, January 18, 2013

On commenting

Just a quick note: I heard some people weren't able to comment, so I've turned on 'anyone' for the comments, which means you can also comment if you dont have any online profile!

And while we're at it: I want this blog to be a place where you can be honest. That means you don't have to spare me in the sense that if you see a mistake, or have a suggestion on how I could do something better. I'd always like to hear it. That's how we learn, right? So, thanks in advance for your comments ;)

Project Pattern Magic

You'd think I'd already have enough to do what with starting a pattern company and all, but I would really like to try and do this other project, too. It will help me get better at pattern drawing, so it will be beneficial anyway. Besides, the pattern business doesn't have to be up and running asap. (First pattern is coming together though! Yay!)



I've got all three Pattern Magic books, and I'd really like to use them. Which is why I started Project Pattern Magic: one magic pattern every month. I'll choose 4 projects from each book and post about them on the last wednesday of every month. Some of the patterns will be wearable, but the last one from each book will be the most complicated, challenging, intruiging or whacky pattern in the book. I.e., not necessarily wearable :) Below is the first one, drawn on half scale just for fun. Can you guess what it'll be?



Ofcourse it would be really awesome if anyone would join me for this project. So if you didn't already have a 2013 project, this is your chance :) I understand if it is too big or too short of notice or too expensive to get all the books, I just thought that I'd mention that doing this together would be even more fun! You could always join me for one of the months, or use patterns from one book only if you like. If so, let me know!

The projects so far:

PPM #1: Draped Design
PPM #2: Bamboo Shoot
PPM #3: Kakurenbo Pinafore
PPM #4: Knot Dress (Musubu)
PPM #5: Asymmetrical Facing

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Coat: Fit Issues

I almost started hemming my coat, but then I realised how stupid that would be. I hadn't seen it on photo's yet. And I hadn't asked you what fit issues you see. How could I forget how important these things are?

The pattern is Burda 10/2012 #106. It is not intended as a winter coat, but I lined it with some very thin fiberfill. It still needs buttons (14!). I'd love to hear what you think!



About the front: I'm not sure if there is too much room around the bust area. And should these princess seams be located so far to the sides? And I'm thinking it could do with some more shaping at the sides and maybe also at the princess seams around the waist.



About the back: There seems to be too much room at the upper back. Or do I need this room to be able to move? And what about the extra room around the lower armscyes? And there seems to be some pulling at the sleeve heads. Would you fix that? And how?

Are there any (other) fit issues you see? Please enlighten me, wise readers!